All Cook Ought to Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.

Jay Wilson
Jay Wilson

Astrophysicist and science communicator passionate about making complex space concepts accessible to everyone.